Earlier this year, Club 4X4 Insurance joined Pat Callinan to adventure across one of Australia’s iconic outback routes: the Oodnadatta Track. Taking on this historic track, we enjoyed a trip filled with stunning landscapes, fascinating history, and a good dose of outback hospitality. Here's a recap of our adventure, starting in Farina and concluding in Alice Springs...
Farina
Our journey began in Farina, a former ghost town that has been lovingly brought back to life by dedicated volunteers. Once a bustling settlement on the old Ghan railway, Farina is now a glimpse into Australia’s pioneering past. One of its highlights is the underground bakehouse, where volunteers fire up traditional wood ovens to bake fresh bread. It’s an incredible way to experience history in action and support the restoration efforts of this unique town.
underground bakery farina
historical ruins farina township
farina township, south australia
Mutonia Sculpture Park
A short drive along the track brought us to the Mutonia Sculpture Park, a surreal outdoor gallery showcasing the creative works of Robin “Mutoid” Cooke. Located near Alberrie Creek, this park features large-scale sculptures crafted from salvaged materials, blending artistry with the outback landscape. Highlights include a sizeable ‘Plane Henge’ and a variety of quirky installations that invite travellers in to pause, explore, and appreciate the unexpected creativity.
mutonia sculpture park oodnadatta track
Coward Springs
That evening, we set up camp at Coward Springs, a peaceful oasis in the middle of the desert. This privately managed campground is known for its restored heritage buildings and its small but inviting hot spring. Once part of the old Ghan railway line, Coward Springs has been thoughtfully preserved, offering a chance to soak in history—literally. The hot spring offered the perfect way to unwind after a long day on the track, not to mention the freshly baked date scones we devoured the following morning.
sunrise coward springs campground
coward springs hot springs oodnadatta track south australia
remote hot spring coward springs oodnadatta
coward springs hut and fresh dates
William Creek Hotel
Next up was The William Creek Hotel, which is known for its unique atmosphere and walls covered in mementos left by visitors from all over the world. From business cards to signed hats and shirts, the pub feels like a living scrapbook of those who’ve passed through.
While there, we couldn’t resist taking on a round of outback golf. Set against the red dirt and scrub of the desert, the "course" is as much about fun and ingenuity as it is about the game itself. With makeshift greens and challenges that are uniquely outback, it’s a fun way to embrace the remote setting and let your adventurous spirit shine. Playing golf in one of the most isolated locations in Australia is certainly a memorable experience, even if our scores would never hold up on a traditional course!
william creek hotel oodnadatta track
outback golf course par 3 william creek hotel
William Creek also serves as a gateway to Kati Thanda - Lake Eyre, Australia’s largest salt lake. While we couldn’t visit due to wet weather closing the access track, the hotel is a great place to visit, stay and gather information about the lake and the surrounding Anna Creek Station (which is the largest cattle station in the world).
road heading north out of william creek township
Algebuckina Bridge
Following on from our high-scoring Inaugural William Creek Golf Tournament, we drove on to see the Algebuckina Bridge, the longest bridge on the Old Ghan railway. Spanning the Neales River, this impressive iron structure was built in the late 19th century to support train travel through one of Australia’s most remote regions. Though no longer in use, the bridge stands as a testament to the engineering efforts that connected the outback to the rest of the country.
We free camped nearby, surrounded by the desolate beauty of the South Australian outback. It was a quiet night, with only the stars and the soft crackle of our campfire to be heard.
camping near old ruins along the oodnadatta track
The Painted Desert
Continuing along the track the next day, we detoured to the Painted Desert, a stunning geological formation of multi-coloured hills and ridges. This area, part of the larger Arckaringa Hills, was once an ancient seabed. Over millions of years, erosion has sculpted these vivid landscapes, creating a stunning pattern of colours as far as the eye can see.
the painted desert oodnadatta track
the painted desert south australia oodnadatta road trip must see
The Pink Roadhouse (An Outback Icon)
No journey along the Oodnadatta Track would be complete without a stop at the Pink Roadhouse in Oodnadatta. Known for its vibrant pink façade and quirky signage and iconic, fluffy pink stubby coolers, the roadhouse has been serving travellers since 1974. Beyond being a place to refuel, the Pink Roadhouse is a hub of information, offering advice and maps to help visitors navigate the challenging terrain and home to the only taxi service in town, the Oodna-Uber!
pink roadhouse oodnadatta track
oodna uber oodnadatta track
Dalhousie Springs
From Oodnadatta, we headed to Dalhousie Springs, another outback icon, this time of the Witjira National Park. These natural hot springs, fed by the Great Artesian Basin, are a haven for anyone travelling through the outback. With water temperatures hovering around 38C degrees, it was another chance to relax in a tranquil outback setting. We spent the night here, under a blanket of stars before sneaking down to the springs early for a sunrise swim (highly recommended)!
dalhousie springs campground
dalhousie hot thermal springs aerial view
swimming dalhousie hot springs
Mount Dare Hotel
Our next stop was the Mount Dare Hotel, often called the last pub before the Simpson Desert. Located near the South Australia–Northern Territory border, the hotel not only offers fuel, but has its own workshop, recovery service, campground, cabins, bar/dining and the most welcoming outback hospitality you could ask for.
inside the mount dare hotel
rest stop mount dare hotel
Old Andado Station: Molly Clarke’s Legacy
From Mount Dare, we continued through to Old Andado Station, once home to Molly Clarke, a remarkable woman who lived in the homestead until the 1990s. The station provides a snapshot of life in one of Australia’s most isolated regions, complete with original furnishings and tools. Molly’s legacy lives on through the volunteers who maintain the site, ensuring her story and the station’s history are not forgotten.
molly clarke house old andado station
molly clarke house old andado station binns track northern territory
old andado station binns track northern territory
Alice Springs (via the Binns Track)
Our final stretch took us along the Binns Track, a scenic route winding through the Northern Territory’s diverse landscapes. The Binns Track takes you across hundreds of kilometres of dirt roads where the horizon stretches endlessly. Make sure to visit the Mac Clark (Acacia Peuce) Conservation Reserve along the way. It’s one of the only places in Australia where you’ll find the rare Acacia Peuce trees, making it a must-see spot on your trip.
acacia puece reserve binns track northern territory
binns track nt outback highway dirt
Why the Oodnadatta Track?
The Oodnadatta Track is more than just a route from A to B; it’s a trip in its own right, through Australia’s rich history and stunning landscapes. From remnants of the Old Ghan railway to the natural wonders of the Painted Desert and Dalhousie Springs, this track offers a unique mix of history, beauty and activities to keep the whole family happy.
Driving the Oodnadatta Track at the right time of year is a fantastic outback experience, whether you’re a beginner looking to dip your toes into off-road adventures or an experienced 4WDer looking to take the scenic route to your next destination. The track is relatively accessible in dry conditions, with plenty of history and sightseeing opportunities to enjoy along the way.
old ghan railway oodnadatta track
Preparation is essential for any outback journey, and the Oodnadatta Track is no exception. Weather plays a huge role in the conditions you’ll face, transforming the dirt highway from a manageable drive into a boggy challenge when wet. Always check the forecast and road conditions before setting out, and respect road closures and local regulations - they exist for your safety and the preservation of the landscape.
Equipping yourself with the right vehicle, supplies, and knowledge is crucial, but so is having the right insurance to back you up. At Club 4X4 Insurance, we’re here to protect your adventure, so you can travel with peace of mind knowing you’re covered anywhere you can legally go in Australia, on-road and off.
Gearing up for an outback adventure?
Make sure you've got comprehensive insurance that can go there too!
outback sunset oodnadatta track
