How to Set Up Your 4X4 for Towing the RIGHT way

Ah, towing. That wonderful art of dragging something large and heavy behind your four-wheel drive, often over punishing terrain in scorching heat, all while pretending you’re not stressing about it. Whether it’s a caravan, boat, or a trailer, getting your rig set up to tow properly is the difference between a journey without incident and an accident.

So, let’s talk about what you need to do to get your 4X4 ready for towing—properly. Because if there’s one thing worse than breaking down in the middle of nowhere, it’s being the person who breaks down with a caravan in the middle of nowhere.

Stone Protection:

If you’ve ever towed anything off-road, you know that rocks and gravel have a real knack for seeking out the most expensive parts of your setup. That’s why you need proper stone protection—unless you enjoy having your trailer looking like it's been in a shotgun battle.

There are two main options:

• Rock Tamers – Big rubber flaps that hang off the back of your 4X4 and lowkey make you look like a wannabe trucker. They stop most of the stones flinging backwards, which means fewer dents and damage to your trailer and tow vehicle.
• Stone Stompers – A full mesh-style cover that sits between your 4X4 and your trailer, catching every rock before it can even think about chipping your paint or smashing a rear window. A bit pricier, but if you value your trailer (or resale value), it’s well worth it.

I personally run Rock Tamers. Each option has its own pro’s and con’s, whichever you choose, just don’t be the person who assumes their 4X4’s mud flaps will do the job. Because I can assure you, they won’t.

12V Wiring

It is essential to have your tow vehicle properly wired to enjoy a trouble-free and safe towing process. Most caravan and camper trailers nowadays require a few different electrical connections to be plugged in before you can set off. These usually include:

Trailer Plugs:

The lifeline between your towvehicle and trailer, ensuring that essential functions—like lights, indicators, and braking systems—actually work. The type of trailer plug you need depends on your setup, but the most common types include:

• 7-Pin Plugs (Flat or Round) – The standard for most trailers, handling the basics like brake lights, indicators, and running lights.
• 12-Pin Plugs – A step up, offering additional circuits for things like electric brakes, reversing lights, and even battery charging.

Anderson Plug(s):

Anderson plugs are those heavy-duty connectors you'll find on properly outfitted touring rigs. They're designed for extreme use and can look after:

• Recharging the caravan or camper trailer battery when in transit.
• Maintaining a fridge in the trailer and keeping your food and drinks chilled.
• Supplying power to your trailer's electric brake system when an electronic brake controller is in use.

Poorly fitted or inadequate 12V wiring can lead to big hassles such as a dead auxiliary battery, inoperable trailer brakes, or a warm-beer-filled fridge—something no Aussie should ever have to endure. Use only quality wiring, fuses and professional installation if you're in doubt.

brake controller towing on a dirt road outback australia

Brake Controller:

Having a trailer with its own brakes is as useful as an ashtray on a motorbike if you can’t control them properly—which is where a quality brake controller comes in.

This small device sits in your cab and controls how much braking force is applied to your trailer’s electric brakes. There are various different types but these days, the most common is a proportional brake controller, such as the Redarc Tow Pro Elite. These match the braking force of your vehicle, making for smoother stops and handling while also giving you a way to safely and effectively combat trailer sway.

If you’re towing anything over 750kg, you need a brake controller. It’s not just a good idea—it’s a legal requirement. Install one, set it up properly, and enjoy actually being able to stop.

Suspension and Hitch Height

Your 4X4s tow hitch is the critical connection between your rig and whatever hunk of weight you’re dragging behind you. Get it wrong, and you’re setting yourself up for a world of trouble. A nose-down trailer? Expect sketchy handling, excessive tyre wear, and a sudden appreciation for how quickly things can go south at highway speeds. Nose-up? Well, congratulations—you’ve just turned your trailer into an unstable pendulum waiting to ruin your day.

driving and towing a caravan in australia

Step One: Sort your Suspension

You want to make sure your 4X4’s suspension (especially at the rear) is up to the task at hand. A sagging rear end isn’t just a bad look—it’s a major handling and safety issue. Depending on your setup, you may need:

• Heavy-duty springs – If your rig is squatting like a wounded animal, you might need to upgrade your springs to something that can handle the weight.
• Airbags – Be careful though, using airbags incorrectly could damage your vehicle's chassis, but that’s a whole other article.
• GVM Upgrade – You might need to upgrade your Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) to handle the extra weight legally and safely.

Step Two: Nail the Hitch Height

It’s unlikely your 4X4 and whatever you’re towing will sit level without some form of intervention. A poorly leveled trailer is an accident waiting to happen, but fortunately, the fix is simple:

• Drop Hitch or Riser Hitch – These hitches correct the height so your trailer sits perfectly level.

Why does this matter? A properly leveled trailer:

• Greatly improves handling and stability.
• Reduces unnecessary stress on your suspension.
• Stops you from looking like someone who just discovered towing yesterday.

For heavy loads and certain setups, a weight distribution hitch might also be worth looking into—it helps balance the weight across all axles, making towing safer and more stable.

Transmission Coolers

To put it simply: Towing = heat. Heat = transmission failure.

If your Automatic 4X4 didn’t come with a proper transmission cooler (or even if it did, but it’s the size of a matchbox), installing an aftermarket unit can:

• Extend the life of your transmission.
• Prevent transmission overheating on steep climbs or hot days.
• Save you from expensive repairs that could’ve been avoided.

It always pays to keep an eye on transmission temperature. If it starts climbing past 100°C when towing, you need a cooler. Otherwise, you’ll be looking at a transmission rebuild, and nobody wants that.

Other Modifications to Consider

Want to take your towing setup to the next level? Here are a few worthwhile upgrades:

• Larger intercooler – Helps keep intake temps and EGTs low, especially if towing in hot conditions.
• Upgraded or additional cooling fans – More airflow = better cooling = less chance of overheating.
• Chassis bracing – Depending on your vehicle and what you’re towing a braced chassis could stop major headaches down the track.
• Heavy-duty clutch (for manuals) or upgraded torque converter (for automatic’s) – Towing big loads puts a huge amount of strain on your clutch/torque converter.
• A quality reverse camera with plugs at the hitch for easy connection when towing.

Do It Right, or Don’t Do It at All

Towing isn’t just about hooking up and hitting the road—it’s a science. Get the setup right, and you’ll have a smooth, stable, and safe towing experience. Get it wrong? Well, let’s just say your next adventure might include a starring role in a viral dashcam video. Sort your tow-rig properly and tow like you mean it.

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